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The Kabaka’s Palace, or Lubiri, stands on Mengo Hill about 3 km south of central Kampala and has been the seat of the kings of Buganda since Kabaka Mwanga II moved his capital there in 1885. In 1966, government troops under Prime Minister Milton Obote attacked the palace and Kabaka Mutesa II fled into exile; the army then used the grounds as barracks, and under Idi Amin an underground armoury became a notorious prison and torture site. Today guided tours show the grounds and the chambers. Here is the history and how to visit.
A royal capital
Buganda’s kings traditionally moved their capital to a new hill when they took the throne. Mwanga II chose Mengo and also ordered the digging of the Kabaka’s Lake nearby. The palace, known by the name of its main building, Twekobe, sits inside a large walled compound. A straight road, the Kabaka Anjagala, runs about a mile from the palace gate to the Bulange, Buganda’s parliament building, so that the king could look across to his parliament. See our guide to the history of the Buganda kingdom.
The 1966 crisis and the torture chambers
After a dispute between Buganda and the central government, Obote ordered the army, then commanded by Idi Amin, to attack the Lubiri in May 1966. Mutesa II escaped and reached London, where he died in 1969. The army kept the palace as barracks, and during Amin’s rule from 1971 an underground armoury in the grounds was used to hold and kill prisoners. The dark tunnels, with messages scratched on the walls, are now part of the tour. See our guide to the 1900 Agreement and Buganda’s later history.
The palace today
The palace was returned to the kingdom after the restoration of the kingdoms in 1993, though the army only left the grounds later, and the current Kabaka, Ronald Muwenda Mutebi II, does not live there. Inside the main building is generally closed to visitors, but the grounds, the exterior of Twekobe, the Amin-era chambers and views along the royal road to the Bulange can be seen. The site remains a powerful symbol for the Baganda.
How to visit
The Lubiri is in Mengo, 15–30 minutes from the city centre by car or motorcycle taxi, depending on traffic. Visits are by guided tour from the gate, with a small entry fee; dress modestly and ask before taking photos of people. It combines well with the Bulange, the Kabaka’s Lake and the Kasubi Tombs in a half-day Kampala tour, ideally on the day you arrive or before flying home after your gorilla trek. See our guides to the Kasubi Tombs and the Namugongo Martyrs Shrine.
Frequently asked questions
On Mengo Hill, about 3 km south of central Kampala.
No. The current Kabaka lives elsewhere; the palace is used for ceremonies and visits.
An underground armoury in the palace grounds used to hold and kill prisoners in the 1970s.
Usually not; tours cover the grounds, the exterior and the chambers.
