Updated 15 October 2026

The best all-round lens for gorilla photography is a telephoto zoom covering roughly 70–200 mm or 100–400 mm on a full-frame camera (about 50–135 mm or 70–300 mm on APS-C). A 70–200 mm f/2.8 is the best choice for Bwindi’s low light; a 100–400 mm gives more reach for gorillas higher in trees or across a gully, at the cost of light. Gorillas are usually 7–10 m away and sometimes closer, so very long lenses are rarely needed, and a second, wider lens or a phone is useful for scenes showing the family in the forest.

What focal length you need

Visitors must keep at least 7 m from the gorillas, but gorillas do not follow the rule: a juvenile may wander past within a couple of metres, and the family is often spread out, with some members much further away. At 7–10 m, around 100–200 mm (full-frame equivalent) frames a whole gorilla, and 300–400 mm gives tight head shots. Closer encounters need something wider, and a 24–70 mm or a phone captures the setting, the trackers and the dense forest that tells the story.

Why aperture matters most

Under the canopy, light is often dim. An f/2.8 lens lets in twice as much light as f/4 and four times as much as f/5.6, which means a faster shutter speed or lower ISO and noticeably sharper, cleaner photos of moving gorillas. That is why a 70–200 mm f/2.8 is such a good choice in the forest. A variable-aperture zoom such as a 100–400 mm f/4.5–5.6 still works well with a modern camera that handles high ISO, especially in clearings or open vegetation. See our guide to photographing gorillas in low light for settings.

Good combinations

One lens: a 70–200 mm f/2.8 if low light is your main worry, or a 100–400 mm (or 70–300 mm on APS-C) if you want reach and will also use it on game drives. Two lenses: one of those plus a 24–70 mm or 24–105 mm for close moments and scenes, or a phone instead of the second lens to save weight. Light kit: a bridge camera or compact with a long zoom works in good light but struggles in the dark forest; a recent phone is often just as good when gorillas are close.

Changing lenses in the forest is awkward and risks rain and dust on the sensor, and the hour passes quickly. Some photographers carry two bodies with different lenses for this reason; most people are better off choosing one main lens and using a phone for wider shots.

Primes and very long lenses

Fast primes such as an 85 mm f/1.8 or 135 mm f/1.8 gather a lot of light and can give beautiful portraits, but you cannot step forward or back freely in thick vegetation, so a fixed focal length is limiting. Long telephotos of 500–600 mm are heavy, slow in low light and usually too long for gorillas at close range, though they are useful for birds and savanna wildlife elsewhere on a safari. Tripods are impractical in the forest; a monopod can help but is rarely worth carrying.

Stabilisation and autofocus

Image stabilisation, in the lens or the body, lets you shoot static gorillas at slower shutter speeds, though it does not freeze movement. Fast, reliable autofocus in poor light matters more than resolution: lenses with modern motors and cameras with good low-light and animal eye detection keep up with juveniles playing or a silverback turning his head.

Renting and protecting your lens

If you do not own a suitable lens, renting one before your trip is often cheaper than buying, but practise with it at home first. Bring a rain cover or a dry bag, a microfibre cloth and lens hood, and keep silica gel in your camera bag, as Bwindi is humid. A clear protective filter is optional; most other filters only cost you light, as explained in our guide to lens filters for gorilla photography. For more ideas, see our gorilla photography tips and the best photography spots in Uganda.

Frequently asked questions