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The gomesi, also called busuuti, is Uganda’s best-known traditional dress for women: a floor-length gown in bright fabric with high, pointed puffed shoulders, a square neckline and a wide sash tied below the waist. It developed in Buganda in the early 20th century, and is now worn by women across much of Uganda at weddings, introduction ceremonies, church, funerals and national celebrations. Here is its history, how it is worn and where to buy one.
History
Before cotton cloth spread, Baganda women wore bark cloth wrapped around the body. In the early 1900s, missionary schools wanted a modest uniform, and the gomesi took shape from a design commonly credited to a Goan tailor named Gomes, which is how the dress got its name. It combined the wrapped style of bark cloth with a fitted bodice and dramatic sleeves, and quickly became the formal dress of Baganda women and a symbol of Ugandan identity. See our guide to bark cloth.
How it is worn
The gomesi is made from several metres of silk, cotton or synthetic fabric, often in bold colours or patterns. It is worn over a slip, fastened with buttons at one side, and tied with a broad sash below the waist, sometimes over a small cloth that gives the hips a fuller shape. Getting it right takes practice, and women often help each other dress for big occasions. At the kwanjula, the Buganda introduction ceremony, the bride’s family and guests wear gomesi while the men wear the kanzu. See our guide to the kanzu.
Buying and wearing one
Ready-made gomesi are sold in Kampala’s markets and boutiques, and tailors can make one to measure in a few days. Prices depend greatly on the fabric. Visitors invited to a wedding or ceremony are often delighted to be offered one to wear; ask your host to help you tie it. See our guide to what to wear in Uganda.
Seeing it in daily life
You will see gomesi on Sundays, at weddings and at cultural events, and often in dance performances at the Ndere Centre. Some older women in rural Buganda still wear it daily. The gorilla permit costs US$800, or US$600 in April, May and November. See our guide to the Buganda kingdom.
Frequently asked questions
A floor-length Ugandan women’s dress with puffed shoulders and a sash.
The name is usually linked to a Goan tailor named Gomes who made early versions.
At weddings, introduction ceremonies, church and national celebrations.
Yes, especially if invited to a ceremony; hosts often help you put it on.
